The flight up from Johannesburg to Zanzibar via Nairobi with Kenya Airways on the 15th was smooth. We had great views of Kilimanjaro on the starboard side as we went into Nairobi, then with the sunset behind it on the port side as we headed south again to Zanzibar.
We stayed in the ‘Emerson Spice’ hotel in old Stone Town. The hotel was built in the 1800s as a home for a wealthy spice merchant. It is delightfully quirky with a unique style.
After a rousing wake up with the call to prayer at 05:15 from some of the many mosques in the area we had a leisurely breakfast on the roof top to consume several litres of awesome coffee and a great fruit platter.
The main activity on Friday was a private guided walk around Stone Town. Our guide, Sulieman, was good, explaining not only many of the historical features of the place but also the cultural elements. An interesting discussion occurred when he explained the local practice of polygamy. Sulieman currently has one wife and three kids, but is apparently open to the idea of more. He was curious as to whether we thought Australian woman might be interested… we offered the view that might prove a little challenging… but you should never say never!
A feature of the distinct architecture of Stone Town are the unique doors. The square doors are influenced by Arab / Omani culture and the ones with crescent shaped tops by that of the subcontinent. The doors are normally made from mahogany or other hard wood. The fancier the door, the greater the status of the home owner was signalled.
The various spikes and brass accoutrement on the door were originally a safety / security feature. Apparently in the ‘old days’ people would use elephants to breach your door to break in. The spikes deterred the elephants from leaning in. As pachyderm burglars declined the spikes and other features morphed into more decorative purposes.
A feature of the tour was a visit to the market. It was … fragrant…. Particularly the bit where the live chickens were sold, dispatched and processed.
After the market we went to the old slave market. This was a place to make you think. Zanzibar was built on, among other things, the East African slave trade. The area is now a memorial / museum, recording the both the history and cultural practices of the time.
From the Slave Market it was off through the ‘Shangani’ sub-district towards the waterfront. Along the way we went through an old Omani Fort, built on the former site of a Portuguese Church after the Omanis defeated the Portuguese for control of the island.
On Saturday morning we again acknowledged the greatness of Allah at 5 am. We spent the morning people watching down at the waterfront and playing the old ‘fishermen or pirates’ game . We decided that some could be both ….
Saturday afternoon and it’s back to the Airport for the shortish hop to Arusha.
Ness’ and Mark’s Wandering 